Maintenance is the key to long term success with this hobby. In the properly setup and stocked aquarium, it can be kept to a minimum.
People often say that the larger the tank, the less maintenance. I believe that it is not less maintenance, the frequency is the same, however with larger tanks the environmental stability is increased making such things as water changes, etc. less stressful on the fish. The maintenance frequency is the same no matter what size tank.
There are several factors that influence how much maintenance is required. Let's look at some.
Overstocked Aquariums
Overstocked aquariums increase maintenance. The increased bio-load requires more frequent gravel cleaning, water changes and filter cleaning. The increased bio-load can also increase algae growth due to increased nitrate production.
Over feeding
This is another common problem that can increase maintenance substantially. The more fish eat the more wasted is produced. Increased ammonia results in increased nitrates which in turn increase the need for water changes. There are lots of phosphates in fish food. The increased phosphates and the increased nitrates are the two main reasons for algae growth. The increased waste production also increases debris leading to more frequent gravel cleaning.
A good rule of thumb is not to feed your fish more than they can eat in two minutes.
Recommended Maintenance Schedule
Daily
Check Aquarium Temperature
This is good practice to do on a daily basis and only takes a second. Make sure the aquarium temperature is in the range you expect and there are no temperature fluctuations. A faulty heater are common and can destroy the aquarium stock in short time. Temperature fluctuations can also lead to diseases, especially Ick. After a time you will be able to feel the aquariums side and determine if the temperature is correct.
Check the Fish
Make sure their activity is normal, they are not hanging out at the top of the aquarium (lack of oxygen in the water) or hovering in a corner. Out of normal activity is one of the first signs of disease and a daily check is the best way to combat any disease as early as possible.
Check Power Filter or Air Pump
Make sure the filter is running. Faulty filters can increase water laden pollutants and nitrifying bacteria die off. Meaning you may need to re-cycle the tank.
Weekly
Water Changes
Some may disagree, however I recommend weekly water changes of 10 to 15%. Some aquarists do 20 or 25% changes every two or three weeks. Weekly changes of a smaller amount mean less change to the fish's environment. The pH of an aged aquarium has the natural tendency to change over time (usually downward). The replacement water may not have exactly the same pH value, even though you have always used the same water. Larger percentage water changes mean larger pH swings causing increased stress. Smaller percentage water changes mean less stress on the fish. Water changes are important in that they increase the oxygen content of the water, decrease the accumulated nitrates, and replace beneficial trace elements that may have been depleted. Two important point about water changes
Make sure that the temperature of the replacement water is the same as the aquarium water. Temperature shock can lead to increased fish stress and disease.
The replacement water should be free of chlorine or chloramines. Chlorine /Chloramine removers are available at local aquarium supply shops and are inexpensive. The replace water should be close to the same pH as the water in the aquarium.
Gravel Cleaning
It is good practice to do this with water changes. Gravel cleaners shown in the Essential Equipment section will allow you to do water changes and clean the gravel simultaneously. You don't need to clean all of the gravel with each water change. Try to do about 20%. DaFishDude web site has an excellent article on gravel cleaning that you can see by clicking here. Accumulated debris will decompose resulting in increased phosphates and nitrates. Periodic removal of debris collected in gravel will help control this.
Every Two Weeks
Filter
The filtering media should be replaced or cleaned. If you are cleaning the media be sure and use dechlorinated water at the same temperature as the aquarium water. A good idea is rinse your filter with the old aquarium water that you are changing. The same goes for cleaning the activated carbon and bio-media if your filter has them. Chlorinated water and temperature shock can kill the nitrifying bacteria that has accumulated on these elements reducing the capability of your aquarium to convert toxic ammonia to nitrate.
Every Two Months
Activated Carbon
Replace the activated carbon. See the article on activated carbon.
When Required
Air stones
Clean or replace air stones if used
Filter Uplift Tube
Clean. Hose brushes available at the local aquarium supply store will make an easy job of this.
Accumulated Algae
Clean accumulated algae on aquarium glass and decorations. Algae scrubbing pads are available for both acrylic and glass aquariums. If you are using plastic or silk plants, these can be cleaned by soaking them in a solution of water with 5% bleach overnight. Be sure and rinse them thoroughly after treatment and do a second rinse with water and dechlorinater (A same as is used for the Aquarium water).
That's it, following these simple procedures will help assure a successful aquarium.
